The title of this post no doubt gives away the answer to the cliffhanger with which I signed off part 1. The lure of Lund was simply too much so I made a mental note to arrive at the race early the next day and boarded a train, paying a small supplement to take my bicycle on board, for the 50 minute journey. This includes a 10 mile stretch across the Oresund Bridge which connects Sweden and Denmark. The last stop before Lund is Malmo. It was quite a feeling at that point to know I was only 10-15 minutes away from a place which holds so many good memories for me. Before too much longer, I saw Lund Cathedral and was disembarking. What follows is lengthy so grab a cup of tea, a biscuit....and some tissues.
Above: after 11 years, I had returned.
I now stood on the station platform for the first time since my 6 month student exchange ended in June 2004. I'd never heard of Lund when I arrived there in early January 2004 but soon learned that it is a town of some history, founded in 990, which has been under both Danish and Swedish rule. It's firmly in Sweden nowadays. The University, Lunds Universitet in Swedish, was established in 1666. Glasgow University's exchange programme allowed me and 2 others to come here during the 2003/04 academic year.
My first task was to haul the bicycle up two flights of stairs onto the main street. I took a few minutes to drink in my surroundings. Naturally some things had changed, for example, Subway has now opened there, but fundamentally it was the same place. I worked out the things I wanted to see. One was where I used to stay. I therefore decided that I would be the 20 year old me for the rest of the day, put my watch back 11 years, jumped on the saddle and headed for the student residences known as Vildanden.
After a slight wrong turning (well, it had been a while), I found the correct cycle path and reached Allingavagen, the street where Vildanden (literal translation- Wild Duck), is located. It had not changed a bit though the blocks were renumbered in 2010 so I struggled to locate the exact one where I stayed. Obviously there are students living there so I couldn't go in but I took about half an hour to take it all in again. Eventually, I surmised I may be starting to look suspicious so cycled back the short distance to the town centre.
Above: back at Vildanden, like 2004, with a bicycle and not dressed much differently to back then.
Where to next then? A meander through Lund's cobbled streets took me to the town's public library, Stadsbiblioteket (pictured below). I had been a member and still had my library ticket so went in for a wander round. That no doubt sounds silly but silliness and nostalgia were the themes of the day.
Next stop was Juridicum, the university's Law School. This is the place I frequented for studies and classes. While he was not available to meet me on the day, to my huge surprise and even greater delight, I re-established contact with the professor who took both of the courses I studied, Henrik Norinder. He even remembered who I was and we are now back in permanent contact, something which means a lot to me. He told me, by sheer co-incidence, someone else from 2004 had re-visited Juridicum the day before my arrival. Alas, I didn't know the person concerned but clearly someone with the same 11 year itch as me. I had made myself a packed lunch with the rolls and cold meat I bought at the Lidl in Copenhagen the previous night so took a seat outside Juridicum to replenish my energy levels.
Above: Lund University's Law School.
Above: lunch and a quick photo at the Law School.
From there, I ventured to Lund Cathedral, an imposing building inside and out dating from the 12th century. Inside, it's 14th century astronomical clock bursts into life every day at 12 noon (1pm on Sundays) and 3pm when knights on horseback clash, trumpeters play, the organ plays "in dulci jubilo" and small doors open admitting mechanical replicas of the Three Wise Men who then proceed past Mary and Jesus. It has to be seen. I was there at 3pm to see it with a large gathering of tourists.
Above: Lund Cathedral.
One of Lund's most picturesque and peaceful places is the town's park, Stadsparken, a lush spot of greenery and tranquility. I went there, via a cycle to the main square in Lund, Martenstorget, after leaving the cathedral. I remember doing training runs in Stadsparken. The route of Lund's annual 10km road race, Lundaloppet, also takes in the park. I ran it in 2004, finishing in a time of 37:21. In addition, I had a memorable day here on 30th April 2004 celebrating Valborg, an annual celebration marking the beginning of spring. This was the one and only time I have ever had a can of lager with my breakfast. A truly memorable day I'll never forget. Some form of activity was going on here and I watched for a little while inquisitively. Maybe university freshers week festivities?
Above: whatever was going on in Stadsparken, it looked interesting.
Above: another view of Stadsparken.
By now, the time was just after 4pm and I felt I'd seen almost everything I wanted to. I'd had an inkling to go along to Vastgota Nation, the student club I visited almost weekly, but wasn't too sure of my bearings so decided to pass. I often liked to hop on my bicycle and cycle out to some of the small towns and villages surrounding Lund, for no other reason than to see them and be able to say I had been. Dalby, Sodra Sandby, Staffanstorp and Lomma were among the places I made it to. I also had fond memories of a town called Bjarred. It serves as a commuter town for folk working in Lund and Malmo but has a beach and a huge pier. I considered going to Dalby but apart from a church it doesn't have much else. Bjarred was about 6 miles away and I wondered if I would end up tired for the race the next day. I asked myself however "when will you next be here?" I couldn't find an answer so bit the bullet, found the correct cycle path and set off.
The route takes in two villages. The first is Fjelie, population of approximately 150. Shortly thereafter, you come to Fladie, a more bustling settlement with a population of around 250. Much of the journey has a backdrop of miles of rolling countryside which, on a beautiful day like this, looked amazing.
Above: passing through Fjelie, population- 150 approx., on the road to Bjarred.
I reached my destination and briefly lost my bearings, partaking in the sights of Bjarred's bus station and shopping centre, before following my nose and arriving at the beach. I was greeted by beautiful golden sand, the gentle ripple of the sea and a stunning view in all directions in the late afternoon sunshine. The pier extends 500m out to the sea with an open air swimming pool and sauna at its end. One or two locals were milling about the beach minding their own business, including a man, roughly in his 70s, eating an ice cream cone.
Above: the pier in Bjarred with the pool and sauna in the distance.
Above: a breather after the cycle to Bjarred.
I parked the bicycle and walked out on the pier to the sea. I had been rewarded for my notion to cycle out here with picture postcard surroundings which could quite honestly have been anywhere in the world. It was dream like. At this point, I felt the happiest I had since touching down in Copenhagen the night before. This justified my decision to re-visit this part of the world. Running, work, family life, everything left my mind. I hadn't been so at peace with myself and content since those 6 months in 2004 as I was at this point.
Above: a failed "selfie" attempt with my hair cut off.
Above: on Bjarred pier, so happy, so content, so at peace with myself and the world.
At some point in Lund, I had gone to a supermarket for provisions, including a pint of milk so I didn't go to put cream in my tea for a second consecutive day. It was about 5.45pm and, being in no rush, I decided to have some private time to reflect on the beach. I took a seat on a rock and had some jaffa cakes and a couple of cans of Mountain Dew and, well, gazed dreamily out to sea. I also had some photographs from 2004 and flicked through them, remembering some good times.
Above: alone with my thoughts in Bjarred.
I planned to have my dinner in Lund so, at about 6pm, had a leisurely cycle back and went to Glorias, a restaurant-bar in the style of the Wetherspoon's or Brewers Fayre type places you have in the UK. In 2004, I couldn't afford to eat there. Now, things have improved and I could barely afford to. I exaggerate a little but let's simply say if you plan to eat out daily in Scandinavia, save your pennies. I ordered a steak, side order of onion rings and pint of lager (Carlsberg) while taking in the Manchester United-Liverpool game. The food and drink set me back at least £30 plus a tip! Beautiful though, worth every krone. I also had a chat with the guy serving me, telling the story of my return after 11 years, and he wished me a welcome back. I was going to comment on the price of the food but considered that the joke may not translate well, thought better of it and settled for saying "tack sa mycket" (thanks very much).
Above: Glorias, cheerful but definitely not cheap.
At full time in the football, it was time to get the train back to Copenhagen. By now it was dark so, unsure how to switch the bicycle light on, walked the short distance from Glorias. There were 10 minutes until my train was due. It dawned on me that I would be leaving Lund for a second time. I couldn't rush my departure. I therefore walked along the main street with the bicycle to a square leading to other areas of the town. I had stood here on my arrival about 8 hours earlier. I'm not too proud to admit I had a lump in my throat and was a little tearful. There was no-one nearby but I really didn't care who saw or heard me. I took a deep breath and said "halsningar Lund, hej da." This translates roughly as "all the best Lund, goodbye." I then blew a kiss and, without a second look, turned 90 degrees to my left towards the train station.
This has been emotional to write. Part 3 comes next week.
